Zen and the North Shore

A parable, on the rocks. Plus where to eat, drink, and climb on the North Shore of Minnesota.

You stunning state, you: Minnesota

This story keeps showing up in my life, so I guess I’m supposed to evangelize. I first encountered it in a book I read to my kids, Zen Shorts by Jon J. Muth, in which a giant panda tells three stories of enlightenment. I didn’t know a panda would teach me one of the life lessons that got me through so much. But here we are.

In the last few months, a version of this story has popped back onto my frequencies. It showed up in some show I was watching, can’t remember which one, and it was summarized in an article somewhere (again, can’t recall in the dizzying array of words I read daily). I told the story to a few ladies sitting on the rocks overlooking Lake Superior last weekend while we synthesized all the sturm and dreck going on in our worlds.

Then, this morning, I got a note from The Universe that said:

So I guess some Picklers must need to know it.

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The Story of the Zen Farmer

There once was an old Zen farmer. Every day, the farmer used his horse to help work his fields and keep his farm healthy.

But one day, the horse ran away. All the villagers came by and said, “We're so sorry to hear this. Such bad luck.”

But the farmer responded, “Maybe.”

A few weeks went by and then one afternoon, while the farmer was working outside, he looked up and saw his horse running toward him. But the horse was not alone, it had returned with a whole herd of horses. So now the farmer had 10 horses to help work his fields.

All the villagers came by to congratulate the farmer and said, “Wow! Such good luck!”

But the farmer responded, “Maybe.”

A few weeks later, the farmer's son came over to visit and help his father work on the farm. While trying to tame one of the horses, the farmer’s son fell and broke his leg.

The villagers came by to commiserate and said, “How awful. Such bad luck.”

The farmer responded, “Maybe.”

A month later, the farmer’s son was still recovering. He wasn’t able to walk or do any manual labor to help his father around the farm.

A regiment of the army came marching through town conscripting every able-bodied young man to join them. When the regiment came to the farmer’s house and saw the young boy's broken leg, they marched past and left him where he lay.

Of course, all the villagers came by and said, “Amazing! Such good luck!”

"Maybe."

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Once I learned to let go of things I can’t control anyway, I really came to a certain peace: there is only what the world brings you, and how you choose to respond. There is no good luck or bad luck, only a part of the story arc which can only be fully read with time. So sit in your story, affect what you can, and read the rest as it comes.

That’s living in the present.

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Go North on Hwy 61!

There’s not much more glorious than the North Shore of Minnesota when it’s showing off all the colors. The drive from the MSP metro is really only one podcast series long, and a pretty straight shot through gorgeous farmland anyway. I love me some Duluth, but that’s for another guide. Get North on Hwy 61, and take the Scenic Route (not a metaphor, an actual byway.) Here are three top stops for your weekend trip, and if you’re a paid subscriber, there’s more intel beneath the paywall!

Poplar House // Up on the Gunflint Trail, you’ll wind your way among cabins and tall trees to find one of the best restaurants in the Northland. The small hotel with cabins was renovated by Bryan Gerrard & Stacey Palmer in 2017, and the eatery and bar are the coolest hang near the BWCA. Don’t worry, flannel and puffer jackets are still the norm, there’s a Ms. Pac-Man machine near the back of the dining room, to your delight. But make no mistake, this pasta with sage, mushrooms, and hazelnuts I had last weekend was seeerious. There’s also a killer double smash burger, fried brussels with a ginger garlic glaze, and one helluva Old Fashioned. None of these might be available! Because: seasons! And they are closing for the season on Oct 27, but will re-open on Dec 27 for the as-spectacular winter season. Might go back for some of that very specific brand of Minnesota excellence, tbh.

Magnetic Rock // Also up the Gunflint Trail, just a hop-skip past Poplar is this magnificent hiking trail. It’s just off the trail road, on the east side, and is a pretty easy 3-mile round trip hike. You’ll see lots of cool banded and flat rocks, if you’re into that (which I am.) You’re hiking to reach a 60-ft tall magnetic rock that seems to stick it straight to the sky. If you have a compass, check it out near the rock, it will likely go nutso. Also, just hug that rock for some good magnetic energy. You’ve now earned a drink at Poplar!

Russ Kendall’s Smokehouse // Just off the Scenic Route of Hwy 61 in Knife River, sits this unassuming little smokehouse that fully feels like it’s been there for more than 100 years. Because it has. Legend has it that William Kendall’s car, loaded with smoked fish being taken to market in Duluth, broke down in Knife River. He was forced to just set up shop from his car, creating Kendall’s Fish Stand. Russ, his son, eventually took over, and the shop is now in the care of the 4th generation. It’s not fancy, it’s just a deli counter with trays stacked with golden smoked salmon, trout, whitefish, and cisco (also known as lake herring.) Grab a pond or two, some regional cheese or other snacks from the cooler, and head north. Flake some onto your bagel in morning, toss it into eggs, make smoked whitefish dip. You can get the goods at Cook County Co-op in Grand Marais.